Thursday, 25 February 2016

LIVE ABOARD’S IN THE CARIBBEAN!!!

Ok this is it I have arrived! If I die tomorrow I will have achieved my dream – hopefully that won’t happen and there is lots more of this to come! As I start this we are currently in Falmouth Harbour Antigua, Chicken Madras simmering on the stove, the sun is down, the ensign has been put away for the night, there might possibly be a glass of chilled white wine by my side and the only bad thing is that I am now 52 as of yesterday! However as Emma said I am now into the 2nd year of my second half-century, which means I am only a toddler, and therefore there is much bad behavior to come – can’t wait to be 68!!

Back to our arrival in St Anne’s Martinique at 4 in the morning on 31st January. It was strange to see lights on the land in the distance, Andrew and I brought her in for the last couple of hours and then woke the others so we could all experience the occasion and make sure we didn’t hit anything after all those days at sea! We dropped the anchor at 3.30am and then we could hardly go to bed there was much celebrating to be done, after all we were Transatlantic Sailors!! It was definitely the first time that I have started a party at 4 in the morning but it had to be done!
Transatlantic Sailor!

Lets just say that having had breakfast onshore the rest our first day on land was a bit of a wash out and it is possible that our impressions of Martinique were slightly marred by our rather sore heads! A great Lobster dinner ashore put a rosier shine on things, that and a good nights sleep at last!

The next morning all bright eyed and bushy tailed we motored around the Coast to Fort de France to sign in and provision, pretty awful town but there was a Carrefour and therefore decent, if not expensive, provisions all purchased in a very versatile shopping trolley…
We found a great little bay to anchor in, attempted to go ashore for drinks, got eaten by every bug known to mankind and retired to the boat for pasta and cards, girls 2 boys 0!!

Then it was time to set sail for St. Lucia, the local wild life accommodated us with two Sperm whales and lots of birds catching fish just of our bow. We anchored in Rodney Bay, having had a flyby of the hotel that we had spent our honeymoon in, sadly now a Sandals resort. A good evening was had in the Marina, much rum punch & vino culminating in some dancing on the back deck…

Marigot Bay
The next morning we meandered to Marigot Bay, dropping our anchor in the mouth to make the most of the breeze and what a fabulous and special place it is! Lots of boat boys looking for work, we employed one to get rid the beard we had grown over the last three weeks, not the best job in the world but as we had been told once you have your man the rest pretty much leave you alone so it sort of has to be done.

Posh dingy dock
We had an amazing dinner out for the Wilson’s last night at the Forest Hideaway – as we arrived in out dingy we were directed into a bay in front of the restaurant lit with green lights which was just magical, great food too! Then a last trip up to the Pitons for lunch onboard and it was time to say goodbye to our shipmates, which was very sad as we had so enjoyed their company and our adventure together, think we might entice them back for some more sailing antics….

The Pitons
Another night in Marigot Bay, a few chores and then a hasty exit as the boat ahead of us dragged its anchor in the freshening breeze and we had to get ours up pretty fast as there was no one onboard the other boat. Great maneuvering by Andrew and the hasty return of the owners of the other boat prevented a calamity and we sailed around to Rodney Bay and spent a breezy night on the hook.

Dominica
Time to head north; we had a cracking sail to Martinique, Q flag up, hook down, no venturing ashore. Then another cracking sail to Dominica which we had been told was now a safe place to go, up went the Q flag, boat boy was handed a few dollars and we sat and admired the rich green jungle around us. The party on the shore went on all night and was still continuing as we left at 10 am the next morning, we were both very pleased to get back to sea and some peace and quiet!! Must be getting old! We discovered later that it was carnival time so we may go back at some point and see some of the island.

Next stop Guadeloupe and Les Saintes, which are just beautiful, and a definite must see. Very picturesque, pretty painted buildings and lovely sandy beaches. We spent a couple of days there and then sailed to the top of the island before heading across to Antigua to meet my lovely in-laws who had come out to meet us and were staying in The Inn in English Harbour for a few days before joining us onboard. As we sailed into the anchorage we were met by a canoe bearing Tom & his friend Roger, the last day of their holiday they had spotted our arrival and come to say hello. Next arrived Keith, it was quite a welcoming party!

Two lovely dinners at the Inn with Keith & Syggs, what a fabulous place especially the restaurant on the top of the hill that looks over both English & Falmouth Harbour and all those red anchor lights.

Mary & Jeremy onboard
We left them in peace for a couple of days as we had a box to tick. Having spent two lovely holidays with Jeremy and Mary in there gorgeous villa on the island I had vowed we would bring our boat into their bay so that is what we did and they came onboard for dinner. Just fab seeing them both and being there!

Fav colour in the world!
Then it was time for my fabulous mother in law Syggs to come onboard for three days, not a keen sailor we did not want to put her of so we stayed on the West side of the Island with its calm turquoise waters and what a lovely time we had, so very special to have them on part of our journey. Dinner onboard both nights, lunch in Dickinson Bay, just a very special time. Big thank you to them both for coming to join us and being part of our adventure!
The Fab In-laws

Sue and Eddie joined us at the very special Sheer Rocks to celebrate my birthday, which was lovely. They are out here for the RORC 600 so it was perfect timing. Big thank you to them for including us in two great parties and so lovely to see them as always. The 600 is a very popular race attracting over 70 boats.  We walked up to the top of the hill to watch the start, which was a fantastic sight.

So now it is time to go home for a couple of weeks, boat to be lifted and bottom painted, much needed after out travels!

In the slings..

Thoughts on being a live aboard in Paradise:-

Food – you have to go with the flow, buy what ever is available and make do. I fell upon a tub of marvellousguacamole in St. Lucia and we used it in everything for days. King prawns in Antigua by the packet fried with garlic, accompanied once by pea Risotto, no mint but a cup of mint tea did the trick. Loved our lunch sailing into Antigua Foie Gras from Las Palmas, tomatoes from Dominica, white wine from St. Lucia and fresh French baguette delivered onboard that morning in Guadeloupe.

Sun – get the jobs done by lunch time then get in the shade, 4.30 to sunset cool enough to start again, best part of the day in the evening sitting on deck enjoying the moonlight and a cool breeze.

Hullabaloo – Best boat in the world still! Most important thing is to have control of the ladder…

Things to fix –
Internet connection! O2 is definitely making its millions out of us, hard to believe they can charge us so much when the local café will connect you for the price of a cup of coffee.
Water – we have a bug in our pipes and it smells.
Hair – I am starting to look like a scarecrow!

Nothing to add
Oh and Atlantic Rowers – Watching single rowers and fours arrive in English Harbour has been very inspiring. Having been out in that ocean and seen those waves I take my hat of to those competitors who have rowed and rolled all that way! And I love the way all the boats big and small blow their hooters to show their support and respect for such an achievement!

The boating world is a really nice place! But then I am a little bit obsessed….




1 comment:

  1. It is my dream to experience the waters of the Caribbean. I just experienced PNG live aboard and I loved it. My goal now is to try to experience live aboard around the world.

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