We picked up John and Jane in Stamford
having done a quick clean up. With my washing plastered all over the boat I
went to find them in the car park only to be encountered by a very embarrassed
looking Dock master who told me he had let my guests in. He then told me that
the boss man had complained about the washing, which was not allowed and asked
me very nicely to take it down as soon as it was dry. Tail between my legs and
profusely apologizing for my trailer trash habits I headed back to the boat to
greet my guests.
We had dinner onboard catching up on each other’s
news and then an early night. The next day Jane and John took us on a tour of Greenwich
showing us their old haunts from the time that they lived there, which was
lovely to see. A walk on the beach, a supermarket and booze shop and then we
headed back to the boat ready to leave. Waiting at the gate to greet us was the
same Dock master, oh no what have I done now? He waited for the other three to
walk on and then quietly told me that he was very embarrassed by our
conversation of yesterday, which in his opinion and that of his supervisor had
been unnecessary as we were such nice people and they had therefore decided not
to charge us for our dockage, how lovely was that! I bounced back to the boat,
reputation restored. Such lovely people these Americans.
|
Our New shipmates |
We headed across the sound to Port
Jefferson, dropped the hook and prepared for dinner. It is no surprise that in
our shopping just happened to be four lovely lobsters, which had arrived
onboard still warm from the steamers. Unable to put them in our fridge I had
left them in the small sink, forgetting that if the plug comes out of the main
sink whilst there is washing up water in it, the two sinks equalize. Oh dear
soapy lobster! Much giggling below decks and frantic washing and crossing of
fingers that no harm had been done. It was remarked upon at dinner that they
were rather soggy, our faces now the same color as the lobsters trying to
suppress our giggles but we didn’t fess up until the next day, once we knew no
one had been poisoned!
An early rise for some, I slept passed 10am,
and we headed of to Block Island. Wind on the nose we decided to sail anyway,
to my horror having managed to dodge a fishing boat I managed to tack the boat
by pressing the wrong button on the autohelm, motor on and crisis averted but the
skippers head appeared through the hatch with that look, oops. Anchor down and
time for my cooking lesson from John the master of Paella, apparently there
should have been enough left for breakfast the next morning….
|
The master of Paella |
The next day, after breakfast had been
delivered by the boat boy from the pastry shop, it was time to go ashore, hire
some bikes and work off the last two meals. We cycled the length of the island,
with a light luncheon en route and suitably exhausted, rewarded ourselves with
a few early evening drinks onshore. The girls trounced the boys at the corn hole
game and we returned to the boat for dinner cooked by my new resident chef.
Time to head to Newport and indulge in some
birthday celebrations for Andrew. Having met up with John and Sandra on Eupraxia,
first encountered on the dock in Grand Canaria, we all set out for a pre
birthday dinner at the New York Yacht Club and had a very jolly evening. Lovely
food and I behaved myself this time and walked down the steps, don’t know what
I was thinking walking down that mountain last time!
|
John and Sandra |
The morning of the birthday dawned but
first there was a job to be done. We had
become aware a few days before arriving in New York that our domestic batteries
were not up to scratch and needed replacing as the fridge and freezer were
cutting out in the night when at anchor. They didn’t owe us anything as they
were the originals and we established they were actually made in America, so
all good there, but where to find eight at a sensible price. Whilst we had been
prancing along Fifth Avenue John had been doing the research for us, for which
we were very grateful, and then through Oyster we found a yard to supply them
to us in Newport. I felt a little silly when we set off that morning to
discover that the yard was actually eighteen miles upstream but at least we
were in the right area! Big thank you again to John for helping Andrew in
removing the old batteries and fixing the new, much money saved and fridges and
freezers now fully functional.
Then we were off on one of Jane’s tours,
which were just as full on as Georgina’s had been and
|
Our Tour Guide and the Chef |
earned her the name of
the Duracell Bunny, a very glamorous one with lots of hats and sunglasses.
Meeting up with John and Sandra we set off to view the Mansions and what an eye
opener that was. At the turn of the last
century it was fashionable for the wealthy set to spend eight weeks of the
summer in their mansions in Newport, until the government introduced Income Tax
and they could no longer afford to run them. They are now museums from a Golden
Age.
We saw two in the time we had left that
afternoon. The first had belonged to a
coal merchant and was splendid. It should
be noted that amongst his many contracts was supplying the US navy. The second the Breakers, belonged to one of
the Vanderbilt families and was ridiculously ostentatious. When I walked into
the dinning room I literally had to pick my jaw up from the floor, imagine
every single form of decoration in the entire world that you have ever seen and
put it in one room. The wealth of these families was staggering, it is evident
as you sail around New York and the surrounding area, and see the very many
large water side properties, just how much money there is in America, but this
was on a whole new scale. The original Footballers wives!
|
That Dining Room |
We retired to a simple bar for drinks and
nibbles and then proceeded back to the good ship Hullabaloo for Spag Bol. Six
of us in one dinghy showing no lights attracted the Harbour Police. When they discovered we had no life jackets
either they issued us with a ticket for committing a Federal and State offence,
luckily just a warning so no fine. They would have a field day in the UK.
|
Doing a Ted Kennedy |
The next day we sailed to Martha’s Vineyard
arriving early evening. Up and out the next day for a cycle around Edgartown
and the surrounding area including where Ted Kennedy had his car ‘accident’
with Mary Lou. It really is a beautiful place with stunning old houses and
beautiful beaches. Sandra and John kindly invited us all for dinner, which was
a very merry occasion. Sitting in their salon I realised that we had put an
offer in on their boat about a year before they bought it and she was just as
beautiful as we had remembered.
|
The Captains House in Nantucket |
Then out to the furthest point in the
States, Nantucket. Equally beautiful as Martha’s Vineyard, perhaps more quaint
with pebbled streets in the Historic District. We cycled around here as well,
finally getting a little bit fitter in the process. All very expensive ashore,
in one bar we were amused to see caviar on the menu for US$500 and bemused to
then see one mother feeding it to her eight year old son.
|
Nantucket Historic District |
We said a sad goodbye to our shipmates the
next morning after a lovely ten days. Back off to the launderette and then the
shops to reprovsion, all finished just in time to scoop Emma up as she arrived
back from her travels on the East Coast. We took her on a tour of the town before
drinks, then dinner onboard and enjoyed hearing all about her fabulous trip.
The weather felt like it was on the turn, time
to turn around and head back south…
And a word from the Chef and the tour guide
The Dallas
Seafood Restaurant 19th August to 29th August, the Year of 2016
What a fantastic 10 days sharing the experience of
the American East Coast with the Dallas Adventure's. A few pointers for the
statement of record THE BLOGG, that will make us all smile laugh and reminisce
in our dotage.
As we all know, young Andrew is very factual with
detail, so best to start the Blogg with some facts to look for as we progress
through the long, hot, chilled days: Andrew the supermarket packer; Small house
collection; Hinkley show pontoon; State law; Chinese Laundry; Shoprite Lobster
card; Flag etiquette; Skippers medical knowledge: Cycling convert and last but
not least the Pound cake!!
Hi Julia, we are just driving under the I95, can
you remind us of what pontoon we need to get to in Shipman?. Of course Jane,
Pier 9, just call as you get near and I will walk up to wave you in. Twice
around the multi storey carpark, lots of Pier 9 signs, no actual pier 9 in
sight and no Princess Julia. True bloke fashion, if all else fails ignore ALL
instructions and directions, go freelance. Oh la la look what we've found Pier
9 in the opposite direction to the signs!. Sitting on Hullabaloo chilled beer
in hand chatting to Andrew aboard the bedecked rigging, no, not dressed over flags,
and no Julia who is still guiding the none existent traffic into Pier 9. Quick
call to the traffic monitor to let her know we were having drinkies on deck.
Gosh five minutes have passed and no Julia. Aha!!! delayed as having a
wonderful chat with the Marina Manager about the top over flag dressing!!! As a
sailor, he thought it was very stylish but perhaps his boss had a different
flag taste. The laughs of the next ten days have already started. All good
signs 85F, gentle breeze and the most powerful AC unit in the world. Stepping
down into the saloon area to get another 37 cent beer was like getting into the
deep freeze unit. Julia and Andrew all played out after their time with the
girls in NY, so a gentle chilled first evening with Julia's delicious pulled
pork - need to get me the recipe, next day in a wrap its to die for.
|
Jane on her old turf |
Saturday, short on time but as we had the car and
needed to complete a few tasks and decided to check out where the Kickham's
used to live. Drive around Greenwich houses and High Street to see the low end
shops, 45 min beach walk off Todds point, lunch in Sound Beach Bar - Kickhams's
old haunt bit like the Vine!!! Then off to Shoprite and Liquor Store for the
vital provisions. Phew and not yet 1pm!! Apparently many of you may know that
Andrew is not perhaps a keen grocery shopper, which was an unknown fact to JK
who does enjoy. However, once Andrew realised they had fresh lobster and beers
in this store, he was soon a convert, his mathematical prowess coming out
calculating price per can for beers compared to the %vol. Still laughing now
about two things in Shoprite, the deal on Lobsters at $5.99 was for Shoprite
card holders only, Janie and Julia looking sorrowful. Not to be beaten, off
trots Janie to customer service, despite having left Connecticut December 2010,
they still had her info on file - hence we purchase the $5.99 Lobsters. Andrew
at this point, having completed the business case on which beers and knowing we
had obtained the lobsters at the right price, had the potential to become the
bored shopper - Julia now starting to get concerned Andrew in a grocery store
with nothing to do!!!. Quick as a flash Julia and Janie have the answer, I
guess many years parenting has paid off, they agreed the young chap needed to
be occupied, give him an item to go off and find they decided, he was
brilliant. Off he would trot focused on the prize, that being the sooner he got
the list finished the sooner he could get out. It worked very well although
still not sure Andrew is fully converted. However, the power of women working
together was yet to come!! Oh my gosh, the look of horror on Julia's face as
Janie instructed Andrew at the checkout to go to the packing end of the
checkout, Janie I heard Julia say, Andrew does not shop and now you have given
him the ultimate task of packing. I am thinking it will end in tears, but to
everyone's surprise off he trots to pack, only to be relieved that Janie had
forgotten about the job creation scheme in the North East, they always pack for
you - Andrew you got away with it again. At this point I take the safest route,
Andrew and I head off for the more vital purchases i.e. the liquor store. Time
is running out, need to head back to the boat and cast off.
Loading the stocks back at the boat, Julia is distracted
by the attention of her new found friend, the Marina etiquette mgr!!, The look
of delight and happiness on Julia's face should be recorded for all time,
worried about another telling off as a naughty school girl for being late to
cast off or more reference to the Chinese laundry of Friday, could not be
further from the truth. Best friends again, he apologised and declined to
charge the $130 for the prior day's berthing. Andrew, what was the name of that
young lady who was so helpful with the hose and lines, I forget?.
|
Always happy at sea
|
Off to Port Jefferson for a lobster fest and fine
wine. Perhaps someone may ask about soap and lobster. Chilled evening, empty
bay with isolated anchorage, however the popularity of the Dallas Seafood
restaurant or perhaps the mega large white tissue at the top of the mast gave
us away, hadn't even dropped the anchor and Eupraxia (John & Sandra blue
Discovery) from earlier Arc parties call up from the same bay. Time to rest,
recharge the batteries and general catch up - pressure of the world
disappearing with every glass. The next day, 6am shuffle, absolute calm, two
princesses sleeping through engine and anchor chain noise, JK trusted with the
important task of steerage, while the skipper does the normal crew job of
cleaning the anchor!!. Head out for the long haul to Block Island. Princesses
arrive, beautiful as the rising dawn!! Full sail and Andrew back to racing
mode, checking out how far behind the discovery is on the wiz AIS.
|
I can count 3! |
Long sail done, Block Island and the Corn bag games
to come, plus the bar education: Julia this second G&T is phew, well a bit
strong - oh yes sorry should have mentioned it, the first cocktail is normally
weak, then when you go back for seconds they give you the real portion plus,
just the same in Caribbean. Breakfast Paella, but breakfast bowl was empty??-
best try it again Julia. Now the start of the cycle conversion. How many
miles? Who made these hills? Where is
the throttle. OMG Julia you do not have all the gears working, as the Duracell
bunny (Janie's new name) heads off in the distance. The ride to the North of
the Island was well worth it - Mohegan Bluffs, great place to find the white
and grey rocks, hope you remember to bring them home for mother Julia. Long
steps all the way down over 100, the view to die for but look to the right to
avoid the one and only wind generator. Andrew the only swimmer today but Janie
wets her pants!!. So the old adage, what goes up must come down. In this case
over 100 steps down is easy and you never think about the return journey, no
escalator.
Lunch on the veranda, in true American style, overlooking the bay, with the young blonde
lady on the Harley passing several times - Andrew, I am sure we hired the wrong
bikes, as we head back to our pedal power. Supermarket too far!!, alcohol and
corn bags calling. Well we all know, none of us are competitive, girls should
not be allowed to beat boys. The whoops, giggles and high fives of two young
ladies with cocktails in hand winning every
game drew quite of lot of local support would be an understatement - who are
these mad Brits?. I guess Andrew, we do need to let them win now and then. Such
fun and the people so friendly.
|
Smart Hand towels! |
The call of deep cycle batteries, I can hear them
saying lift me, lift me. Off to Newport Rhode Island to collect Andrew's nice
birthday present. How fantastic mid way to Newport: engine off, sails away,
helm full over, a swim in the sea miles from the shores, a Kickham first but
one of many no doubt for the Dallas's. Now Julia and Andrew, as you know and
have heard us say many times, Newport is one of our favourite places with great
memories from our time in the States. However, you have both made this an even
more special place. To arrive by boat, anchor off of the New York Yacht Club,
board the club launch and be treated to cocktails, sunset and the most divine
meal, with great friends was just one of those, to be savoured forever moments.
Thank you both so much. And yes Julia I am with you: strawberries should go
with double cream not foie gras.
The eventful day - Newport Work Day, Mansion House
visit and Naughty Brits, you know its a State & Federal law!!.
Julia, I guess we knew it was going to be a
different day, when at 8.55 am you called up the Marina to ask where their fuel
berth in Newport was - OH!! You mean Portsmouth some 19 miles down the coast,
hmm that may take us a little more than five mins. No worries, the journey down
will give the sun enough time to get the temperature up to 90F and 70%
humidity, it will help Andrew and I to lose a little weight with our own
personal sauna. So guys remember deep cycle batteries are light especially the
eighth one. The kind gentlemen that we are, you recall Andrew and JK insisted
on doing the heavy lifting, well until the size zero young lady in the workshop
lifted the battery from the wobbly trolley - all by herself..Yup Julia I can
feel the look.
Now Andrew, you have switched off everything, no
current potential on that nice big neutral?!! Of course John, everything
disconnected. Well with all that engineering training hmm, JK thinks, best you
leave Andrew to do the neutral connections and stay with the nice red ones. Oh
la la, Andrew, I hope you have a change of shorts - I guess we still had a
connection, Phew, Andrews birthday present all fitted and tested and off we
head back to our fab prior anchorage in front of the New York Yacht Club. A
good time to note, 56ft Yacht Mega white and red tissue flying from the mast and staff, looking splendid and in full
panoramic view of the Club and Officers. Stunning. Work tasks done for the day,
now off on one of Duracell's tours (Janie's new name), poor Sandra and John
from Eupraxia, not having experienced the energy from
|
Birthday Present
|
Duracell joined us for
the afternoon tour. Fortunately, the present giving installation had taken a
little longer, which saved us from the full tour. It was jointly decided we
would only take one dinghy ashore for the six of us and that we would only tour
two mansion Houses. To show the two spectrums of the eight week holiday houses
and to demonstrate how cash was so short back in 1896, we opted for the poor
Coal Merchants house first; The Elms. What opulence - to remind you Andrew and
Julia, this was the one that had the live monkeys for the Ball and diamonds in
the coal bucket. All impressed, we moved up the Hill from Bursledon to Old
Bursledon to view The Breakers owned back then by the Vandervilt's,
remembering, no Federal tax in the USA until 1913. Julia, you looked so
impressed with wow factor of the main hall or perhaps ball room. Good job the
marble on the floor in the dining room was strong, never seen you so lost for
words as your jaw hits the floor. Wealth expression from around the world -
baccara and murano glass dripping everywhere, marble walls and floors, money
galore and no taxes, wealth beyond dreams.
|
State & Federal Offence |
Talking of dreams, beer o clock calling, but all
tour buses back to the harbour gone, the joy of Uber calling. The sun is
shining, the bars are heaving, but we found a space for six to perch on stools,
wine and beer ordered for six whilst we plan our next move, meal out or spag
bowl on the deck watching the sunset. Hmmm, mistake number two, more wine
girls, another bottle and beers arrive again. sunset gone, darkness falls,
giggles and joy as we cast the vote for spag bowl. Six young brits in joyful
mode head back to the dinghy. Fab, dinghy exactly where we left it, no other
boats to clamber over. Off we set, OPPS!!! No more than 30ft from the pontoon
in full view of all of the water front bars, with about a 100 yards to travel -
off of our port side about 10 ft behind, sirens blazing blue and red lights
flashing like a strobe and a mega big flood light. Two nice gentlemen, in blue
uniforms at the controls requesting us to stop. Sirs, you have no navigation
lights - hmm, girls starting to giggle, iphones coming out, I am thinking
surely the girls do not want these guys phone numbers. Opps, the next question
is where are you going. Andrew now in sensible control, well Sirs, Sirs
important Sirs, we are just heading out to our anchored yacht over there
(pointing to the nice 56 ft Oyster in front of the yacht club with it flags
still flying!! and no anchor light opps). Ignoring the reply, the nice
important officers ask, do we have six PFD's on board. Hmm, PFD's PFD's aha
they mean life jackets. Opps, the sensible reply, actually No. Sir, are you not aware, IT IS A STATE AND
FEDERAL LAW to have lights and PFD's on board after sunset. Girly giggles
suddenly stop, well nearly. So now the best bit, in full view of the dock side
bars, we have our own personal harbour guide taking us back to Hullabaloo. On
arrival hoping and praying we were not going to get arrested and just get
another small naughty boys and girl telling off. Young Andrew as the skipper is
issued with his first USA written warning (better than an orange jump
suit) we are all guessing he will also
have a nice letter in the post from the
yacht club secretary about Flag Etiquette and anchor lights :-(. great spag
bowl and lots more giggles with wine, but John and Sandra took no chances on
their final leg, duly kitted out with Dallas PFD's and divers torch!!!
|
Cyclists extraordinaire |
Off to Matha's Vineyard next day, Edgars Town. A
super mooring buoy and pick up - and yes JK gets his second Julia look followed
by a very short verbal instruction, OMG the counsellors bill is escalating!!!.
Duly settled, time for Jane and John to pop ashore to find the scallops for
supper. Just like Julia's Caribbean wine adventure, the scallops are in the bag
before asking the price - well fine scallops indeed, but at that price one
assumed they would be rowing the boat back and hopping into the pan all by
themselves. Undaunted by the shock of price back to Edgars Town Yacht club,
perhaps a cheeky beer and wine on the deck, good idea. Hmm etiquette again
wrong, Duracell sitting on the deck waiting for the wine, JK having deep and
meaningful discussion with the Flag Officer about sailing shorts within the bar
after 6pm. However, after polite discussion and much grovelling alcohol was
served. Now here is a funny thing, its all about Economic Truths but no lies.
Out on the deck the Flag officer is setting up for the sunset cannon firing and
he becomes JK's best new friend and happy for JK to order more liquid
refreshment. How I hear people ask?. Easy, he has a small cannon to set up and
guess what, it is identical to the nightmare cannons we used to use for
Bursledon Regatta, so conversation ensues about the misfires and cleaning and
how they were always a problem back home. Next question is how did we get here,
well the truth is on Hullabaloo, but he assumed all the way from the Solent!! -
who am I to tell him all the way from NY!!!. Especially when he has opened the
gate for my shorts to get to the bar and has become my new best friend. Julia,
I would never have put Dahl with the cumin and scallops, but oh my gosh a new
menu to keep - perfect. Next day great cycle ride, follow that man, he has
local knowledge. The question of the day: so where is this famous Mary Lou
jumper bridge?, YOU are standing on it, Really!! see the picture - empty beach
to die for. I guess we all know that Andrew is also a quicker learner and on
the cycle ride around Matha's we happen upon another Shoprite - recall Andrew
the shopper and packer, no problem, Andrew promotes himself to cycle custodian
- code for Andrew no go
|
Got it! |
inside big grocery shop again. Julia, the leg action,
you finally found the pound cake. Great invite for supper to Eupraxia with
Sandra and John moored close by, however we were treated to Andrew teaching
Duracell how to use the outboard, many belly laughs later and fortunately
although not sure how, no bumps into surrounding boats. How funny, Eupraxia by
another name was one of the boats Julia and Andrew had made an offer on before
the final deal with Hullabaloo.
Great evening, followed next morning by the
traditional boys get the boat underway, water tanks getting low, spied on the
port bow as manoeuvring out of the harbour a pontoon with hoses for water,
quick diversion. An old open motor boat moored on the opposite side doing the
same. However, very smart young lady pops up to assist the mooring lines. No
sooner landed than the question of flag etiquette arrives - so what is a yacht
in the North East doing Flying a UK Naval Flag - before any response is
allowed, the second comment, you must be a member of the Royal Yacht Squadron
then. Even more bazar not only did she know all about the Squadron, but five
minutes later the young husband arrived, ensuing
conversations, he was a crew
member on one of the Americas cup trials boats back in the 70's. Andrew you
will have the dates, so as you have guessed not quite young but still out there
playing boats.
|
Nantucket Harbour |
|
Where are we?
|
Off now to the Hinkley showrooms, yes Nantucket.
What a fabulous place, the playground of the rich from Boston and NY. Again,
the convert to cycling, great swim, the cleanest water we had seen in the NE,
beautiful beach front houses. Andrew, the wedding party, have you ever seen
that many pairs of shoes on blokes that match?. Remember the old jeep - this is
a monied place. Early evening cocktails on the waterfront, wall to wall
Hinkleys - I am looking forward to the picnic your new day boat!!. Divine
cocktails, but oh my gosh, still smiling at seeing a mother trying to spoon
feed caviar at $524 a pop to her 8 year old, when all he wanted were the chips
and coke. Back to Hullabaloo:Tagliatelle, chili, cream and lobster tails. So
Julia, how hot are these crushed chillies. Oh John they are quite gentle now.
Ok this much?, Yes but just a little more. Fantastic table laid out on deck by
Andrew, all food duly eaten to the last scoop - the problem was the chilli was
a little hotter than advised, ok for some but the lips of a certain young lady
on board were a little hot and sensitive - no problem, our resident medic !!
ala skipper Andrew has a medical certificate and cure - ask him !!! if you
dare!
|
Leaving Nantucket |
Time to fly, the 10 days of adventure on the high
seas on the Dallas dream have sadly come to an end for the Kickham's, time to
catch the fast cat to the mainland and head to Boston and then New York.
Fabulous time fabulous people.
Thank you both so much - a real experience.
Bon Voyage
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