After three nights at sea, turbo charged as we crossed the Gulf Stream,
we arrived at Beaufort to Grey skies, big seas and strong winds and headed to the marina, pleased for once to tie up to the hard stuff. Seeing the American flag flying in the breeze gave me a thrill to be back in America again and keen for new adventures on the East coast.
Out of fresh food it seemed a good idea to go ashore for dinner, and then it seemed like an excellent idea to go to the bar for a nightcap, not realising it was Memorial Day. We met some very jolly locals and ended up drinking shots with them and that seemed like the best idea ever! Waking to the customs man knocking on the side of the boat the next morning, feeling very worse for wear, none of it was a good idea at all! And then another rap on the hull and the chap the skipper had been chatting to as we left the bar wanted to know if we were going to take him around the harbour or just show him around the boat?? It transpired he was homeless and living under a pergola in the park, we were somewhat taken aback but invited him for coffee and he was actually a very nice man despite the aroma.. After a couple of hours Andrew gave him beer to encourage him to leave and after that we were his new best friend which became a little
awkward, time to leave!
awkward, time to leave!
The marina lent us their hire car and we drove to the nearest Teeter Harris where we fell upon all the beautiful fresh food! So fully fuelled and provisioned we headed to the Bight, one of our favourite anchorages from our last visit. We had encouraged our neighbours in the marina, Kim and John, to come and join us which they duly did the next day. We went for a walk on the long
sandy beach of the outer banks, got on so well we invited them for drinks, which turned into dinner and another new friendship made.
sandy beach of the outer banks, got on so well we invited them for drinks, which turned into dinner and another new friendship made.
We had recounted to our new friends our story of the previous time that we had sailed alo
ng the stretch of coast from Hatteras to the Chesapeake when we had been escorted by five US frigates for several hours leading us to believe that they were using us as a foreign vessel to practice manoeuvres on. Travelling in convoy the next day on the same stretch of water we had several very close fly pasts by some US jets which kept us all entertained for a few hours, very impressive stuff even if they were clearly more interested in our British flag.
ng the stretch of coast from Hatteras to the Chesapeake when we had been escorted by five US frigates for several hours leading us to believe that they were using us as a foreign vessel to practice manoeuvres on. Travelling in convoy the next day on the same stretch of water we had several very close fly pasts by some US jets which kept us all entertained for a few hours, very impressive stuff even if they were clearly more interested in our British flag.
Arriving in the Chesapeake we were grateful that John had given us some pointers on places to anchor, there is nothing like local knowledge. We spent our first two nights in the Mobjack East River. Visiting the town of Mathews dressed in an Antiguan kaftan and shorts I caused one local matron some upset, apparently her mouth fell open and she definitely thought I was white southern trash. Time to put away the Caribbean wardrobe. Our next stop was in Locklies Creek, Irvington where we had the most excellent dinner at Tides Inn. Sitting under a giant cedar, our beautiful vessel anchored in front of us, we ate the most succulent and enormous piece of steak and drank some delicious red wine, and there followed the worse nights sleep ever!
We headed into the eastern branch of the Corrotoman river to catch up with Jonathan and Anne aboard Sophia and to meet the local Ocean Cruising Clubs officer. We had been persuaded to join the club by Ann & Jonathan, but had as yet had had no direct involvement in any of their activities. They were all about to head off on a Historic rally of the lower Potomac river which we had not intended to join. Then we met Lydia who was so lovely, friendly and enthusiastic that suddenly there was nothing else in the whole wide world that we wanted to do more, and what a good call that was. Over the following week we met some lovely like minded sailors and enjoyed the American Pot Luck get togethers where you bring your own drinks and a dish to share. Our favourite was a raft up of twenty dinghies tied together in a circle floating downriver in the sunshine, the odd blip of an engine to put us back on course.
We started the rally in Reedsville yet another beautiful riverside town with fabulous houses lining every bank, I swear you get a house with a water view with every packet of cereal you buy in America! The local fishing museum held a party on our first night to which we were invited. The next day in true American hospitable form Walter, a local who had made his dock available to us all to tie up our dinghies to, took us to the ferry terminal and several of us jumped on a ferry to the rather different Tangiers Island.
A small flat island in danger of sinking, it is inhabited by only 450 people who mostly make their living from the farming of soft crab shells. Rather poor and somewhat interbred, there only seemed to be four family names on all the tombstones and war monuments. In fact many of the tombstones were in the front gardens, we were told the reason for that was so that when the waters rose the bodies would not float up to the surface. All the children go to one school and when there is a hurricane warning a ship arrives and takes them all to the mainland for the duration. Strong Trump supporters, due to the fact that he has authorised the new sea wall they so desperately need to stop the island from sinking, they are a friendly if different people with a strange Elizabethan accent. Although we all enjoyed the visit none of us wanted to miss the only boat back to the mainland and in retrospect it is probably the most depressing place we have visited so far.
That evening brought another get together in the Fish museum with a rather splendid band playing Blue Grass which of course had to be danced too. All wrapped up by 9pm and back on the boat for an early night. I hate to admit it but I rather like the American way of life, in fact I find my self thinking on many occasions that I would rather like to be an American! The trip to St. Mary’s on the Potomac the next morning brought fresh winds and lumpy seas, it reminded me of sailing in the UK and I wondered quite how we had developed such a passion for sailing after our recent champagne experiences. Perhaps that is why we have always liked to go racing so much in the UK as it takes one’s mind off the weather!
Arrival at our destination brought the discovery of Windowgate. I had failed to properly close my bedroom port hole and I came below to discover the side submerged in sea water, the bed and our lovely bespokemattress saturated and my kindle and the keyboard for my IPad swimming in it. What a nightmare and it goes without saying that I was not at all popular! We put thebedding into our washing machine which decided to pick that moment to pack up and empty water all over the Pilot berth. We now had a very damp boat, wet mattresses propped up in the galley and saloon, lots of dripping sheets, bad weather so no hope of drying anything on deck and not the best relations on board! As someone said to me later that day you have days why you wonder why on earth you are living this life and then the next day you remember why, I have to admit to it taking two days to reach this happy conclusion, one kindle beyond repair and a defunct washing machine, everything else back to normal!
We had drinks at the college in St. Mary and then sailed on to Leonards Town for the memorable dinghy float and a farewell dinner in a local restaurant. And not to forget the great talk given by our new friends Neil and Ley on visiting Cuba, which we have now firmly decided to do in January on our way to Panama. We said our goodbye’s and headed to Annapolis stopping in Solomon’s Island, disappointing except for the two excellent starters we had for dinner. After that we headed to the East Rye river for a couple of nights enjoying the peace and an epic kayaking expedition.
We had a few reasons for revisiting the beautiful town of Annapolis. Our radar had given up the ghost and we felt it inadvisable to visit Maine without one so we needed help, happily given by Annapolis Boat services. The usual provisioning & laundry, a new part for our ships clock to pick up from Weems and Plath and most importantly to visit our new friends Kim and John. They picked us up in their Boston Whaler, took us back to his lovely house on the water, several drinks later we headed back into Annapolis for more drinks and dinner, I now love oysters! Many giggles and a promise to meet in Maine later in the summer.
We headed up through the Delaware canal and down the gloomy Delaware River, a night in Cape May and an early start, which way to go? New York or Block Island, not a bad problem to have on a Monday morning! The weather dictated the latter and off we went, running the gauntlet of the little fuckers those horrible blighting flies that we had encountered last time around, back hand fly swat now very effective! Coming into Long Island Sound I was rewarded with the capture of Queenie the largest bass we have ever seen, eight meals at least! Andrew saw a whale and a shark, happily I did not see the latter!
After a couple of nights in Block Island our next port of call was Newport to meet Will from Oyster to discuss works to be carried out in September. A small saga with the gas cylinders, ours now so old the Americans refused to fill them, so we bought some new ones, turns out they have a different fitting, a few hours worry, then we find we had the fitting all along. And I had to buy some trousers from Helly Hanson as the weather was not great and I didn’t have anything warm to wear, of course the sun came back out the next day!
Next port of call was the Cape Cod Canal and North to destinations unknown, so much excitement. The canal is quite an experience as you are going down hill with the tide from one end to the other. Popping out the other side we headed to Plymouth where the Pilgrims settled. A strange town, visiting the rock they landed on Andrew felt sure it hadn’t originally been on a Plinth, walking through the graveyard where many had been buried there was a feeling of peace and tranquility, overlooking the bottom of the hill there was a modern day protest against society in form of a mural which made me smile. Perhaps the Pilgrims suffered a little more....
We had thought we would visit Boston next to celebrate 4th July but at 1600 bucks for three nights we decided to go to Marblehead instead. We were made very welcome by the Boston Yacht Club their Dock Master Ken is a member of RORC with many great memories of racing in Cowes.
As part of the festivities there was a music stage which we visited on two different evenings. It is all done by 11pm but not before lots of dancing. In the yacht club the next night we met the drummer of one of the bands, we thought he was pretty good, it turns out he is quite famous! During the day of 4th July there was a re-enactment of a battle against the Brits, they were definitely firing their canons at us, I almost got the ensign down and waved it in surrender ! The fireworks were spectacular, a very good idea to celebrate the 4th in Marblehead especially as it reminded us so much of Cowes.
We left early the next morning and spent a night in the Isle of Shoals, just so that we could say we had landed in New Hampshire and thus complete our visit of all the states on the East Coast. A religious retreat so maybe not our bag, the next morning we set sail for Portland and Maine.....
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